CraftCalc

Knitting Decrease Calculator

Subtract the ending stitch count from the starting count to get the total decreases, then divide the rows by that number to find how often to decrease. This knitting decrease calculator spaces the shaping evenly — row by row, with the exact instruction for each shaping row — and works in reverse for increases, so a hat crown, a sleeve cap or a raglan gets its shaping laid out before you pick up the needles.

Shaping at

More than now = increases

Plan

Decreases total24 sts
Shaping rows24of 36 rows
Stitches at end72

Shape every row: 24 decreases spread across 36 rows.

How this was worked out

decrease total = 96 − 72 = -24 (24 to decrease)

24 decreases ≥ 36 rows → shape every row, 0–1 per row

If the spacing comes out fractional, alternate the two nearest intervals (e.g. every 3rd and 4th row) — the plan below does that for you.

RowInstructionSts after
1Work even.96
2Work even.96
3Work even.96
4Work even.96
5Work even.96
6Work even.96
7Work even.96
8Work even.96
9Work even.96
10Work even.96
11Work even.96
12Work even.96
13(k 94, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd95
14(k 93, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd94
15(k 92, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd93
16(k 91, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd92
17(k 90, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd91
18(k 89, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd90
19(k 88, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd89
20(k 87, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd88
21(k 86, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd87
22(k 85, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd86
23(k 84, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd85
24(k 83, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd84
25(k 82, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd83
26(k 81, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd82
27(k 80, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd81
28(k 79, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd80
29(k 78, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd79
30(k 77, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd78
31(k 76, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd77
32(k 75, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd76
33(k 74, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd75
34(k 73, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd74
35(k 72, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd73
36(k 71, k2tog) × 1 — 1 st dec'd72

Shopping list

  • Locking stitch markersmark each shaping point as you work1 pack
  • Row countertrack which schedule row you are on1

How do you distribute decreases evenly?

The arithmetic is two divisions. Total shaping = start stitches − end stitches (96 to 72 is 24 decreases). Spacing = rows ÷ total: 36 rows ÷ 24 decreases = a decrease every 1.5 rows — which in practice means alternating “decrease every row” and “decrease every other row”, or clustering the decreases where the pattern reads best. When the spacing is a clean whole number — 48 rows ÷ 24 = every 2nd row — the shaping is perfectly even.

Where the decreases go is a style choice the calculator lets you pick. Evenly across the row suits circular yokes and hat crowns: the instruction “(k N, k2tog) × M” spaces M decreases uniformly. At each end suits flat pieces with visible edges — raglans, sleeve caps, neck shaping — where “k1, ssk, work to last 3, k2tog, k1” keeps a one-stitch selvedge and a clean decrease line you can seam against.

Worked example: 96 to 72 stitches over 36 rows

A sleeve needs to go from 96 stitches at the underarm to 72 at the cuff over 36 rows. Total: 24 decreases. Spacing: 36 ÷ 24 = 1.5 rows between decreases, so the calculator floors the interval to every row and banks the 12 leftover plain rows at the start of the piece, where they read as a straight section: rows 1–12 work even, then one decrease every row from row 13 through row 36 — 24 single decreases that land on exactly 72 stitches at the cuff. The row-by-row table shows each shaping row’s instruction and the running stitch count, so you can mark the pattern before you start.

For a gentler example — a hat crown decreasing 8 stitches every other round — enter start 96, end 8, rows 22 with even placement and the table lays out the classic “(k10, k2tog)” rounds. When the total exceeds the rows (rapid shaping), the calculator spreads multiple decreases across each shaping row instead.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between k2tog and ssk?

Both decrease one stitch, but they lean opposite ways: k2tog leans right, ssk (slip, slip, knit) leans left. At the edges of a flat piece, use ssk at the start of the row and k2tog at the end so the decreases mirror each other. For invisible decreases in the middle of a row, either works — pick one and stay consistent.

How do I decrease evenly when the numbers do not divide cleanly?

Divide stitches by decreases and alternate the two nearest spacings: 95 sts with 12 decreases is 95 ÷ 12 ≈ 7.9, so alternate (k6, k2tog) and (k7, k2tog). The calculator's row instructions handle this; the rule of thumb is to spread the leftover plain stitches across the early repeats rather than dumping them at the row end.

When should decreases be at the edges instead of across the row?

Whenever the edge will be visible or seamed: raglan lines, sleeve caps, V-necks, armhole shaping. Edge decreases create a tidy diagonal line one stitch in from the selvedge. Across-the-row decreases are for circular or seamless shaping — hat crowns, yokes, sock gussets — where no seam will hide a decrease line.

Can I use this for increases?

Yes — enter an ending count higher than the starting count and the calculator flips to an increase schedule (m1 or kfb), with the same even spacing logic. Raglan increases, thumb gussets and top-down yoke expansions all work this way.

How do I keep the pattern stitch correct while decreasing?

Work the decreases in pattern as long as there are enough stitches — a k2/p2 rib keeps ribbing right up to the decrease row, where you may need to k2tog two purls. Once stitch counts stop being multiples of the repeat, fall back to stockinette for the final shaping; it is what most published patterns do at crowns and caps.

Formulas and standard tables are sourced in the methodology. Results are estimates — measure twice, cut once.